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      • Trusted Partner
        Cultivating political and public identity
        Humanities & Social Sciences
        August 2017

        Cultivating political and public identity

        Why plumage matters

        by Rodney Barker

        Public and political life can no longer be seen as simply the pursuit of material gain or even as the struggle for enough food and shelter by which to live. The interests people pursue are shaped by the identities which they both inherit and cultivate. In generating identities, everything is important, from clothing to cuisine, from architecture to language, and to understand why and how people associate in groups and communities, and why they compete and conflict with each other, every aspect of identity has to be taken seriously. Whatever secrets may remain in people's minds or souls, who they are socially is what they say, what they eat, and how they live. This book is ideal reading for students, lecturers, and the general reader interested in the importance of identity in public life, and in the inherent political momentum in identity cultivation to both equality and inequality simultaneously. This title will be available as an open access ebook under a CC-BY licence.

        More
      • Trusted Partner
        Cultivating political and public identity
        Humanities & Social Sciences
        August 2017

        Cultivating political and public identity

        Why plumage matters

        by Rodney Barker

        The colour of your clothes, the way you pronounce a name, the way you wear your hair, proclaim to the world who you think you are. Every aspect of human identity, from the way you walk to the way you talk, from clothes to food, can be a vital part of joining friends or fearing enemies. The identity which is cultivated out of such apparently trivial or superficial details is both the engine and the fragmenter of human society.

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      • Trusted Partner
        Cultivating political and public identity
        Humanities & Social Sciences
        August 2017

        Cultivating political and public identity

        Why plumage matters

        by Rodney Barker

        Public and political life can no longer be seen as simply the pursuit of material gain or even as the struggle for enough food and shelter by which to live. The interests people pursue are shaped by the identities which they both inherit and cultivate. In generating identities, everything is important, from clothing to cuisine, from architecture to language, and to understand why and how people associate in groups and communities, and why they compete and conflict with each other, every aspect of identity has to be taken seriously. Whatever secrets may remain in people's minds or souls, who they are socially is what they say, what they eat, and how they live. This book is ideal reading for students, lecturers, and the general reader interested in the importance of identity in public life, and in the inherent political momentum in identity cultivation to both equality and inequality simultaneously. This title will be available as an open access ebook under a CC-BY licence.

        More
      • Trusted Partner
        Fashionability
        Business, Economics & Law
        November 2017

        Fashionability

        Abraham Moon and the creation of British cloth for the global market

        by Regina Lee Blaszczyk

        More
      • Trusted Partner
        European fashion
        The Arts
        February 2018

        European fashion

        The creation of a global industry

        by Regina Lee Blaszczyk, Véronique Pouillard, Christopher Breward

        The period since 1945 has been a transformative era for the fashion industry. Over the course of seventy years, the fashion world has moved from celebrating the craftsmanship of haute couture to revelling in ever-changing fast-fashion. This volume examines the transition from the old system to the new in a series of case studies grouped around three major themes. Part I focuses on Paris as a creative hub, aiming to understand how the birthplace of haute couture adapted to late-twentieth-century developments. Part II considers the retailer's role in shaping taste, responding to consumer expectations and disseminating fashion merchandise. Part III looks to alternative visions of the European fashion system that have appeared in unexpected places. The volume is highly interdisciplinary, covering design history, cultural anthropology, ethnography, management studies and the cultural history of business.

        More
      • Trusted Partner
        European fashion
        The Arts
        February 2018

        European fashion

        The creation of a global industry

        by Regina Lee Blaszczyk, Véronique Pouillard, Christopher Breward

        The period since 1945 has been a transformative era for the fashion industry. Over the course of seventy years, the fashion world has moved from celebrating the craftsmanship of haute couture to revelling in ever-changing fast-fashion. This volume examines the transition from the old system to the new in a series of case studies grouped around three major themes. Part I focuses on Paris as a creative hub, aiming to understand how the birthplace of haute couture adapted to late-twentieth-century developments. Part II considers the retailer's role in shaping taste, responding to consumer expectations and disseminating fashion merchandise. Part III looks to alternative visions of the European fashion system that have appeared in unexpected places. The volume is highly interdisciplinary, covering design history, cultural anthropology, ethnography, management studies and the cultural history of business.

        More
      • Trusted Partner
        European fashion
        The Arts
        February 2018

        European fashion

        The creation of a global industry

        by Regina Lee Blaszczyk, Véronique Pouillard, Christopher Breward

        The period since 1945 has been a transformative era for the fashion industry. Over the course of seventy years, the fashion world has moved from celebrating the craftsmanship of haute couture to revelling in ever-changing fast-fashion. This volume examines the transition from the old system to the new in a series of case studies grouped around three major themes. Part I focuses on Paris as a creative hub, aiming to understand how the birthplace of haute couture adapted to late-twentieth-century developments. Part II considers the retailer's role in shaping taste, responding to consumer expectations and disseminating fashion merchandise. Part III looks to alternative visions of the European fashion system that have appeared in unexpected places. The volume is highly interdisciplinary, covering design history, cultural anthropology, ethnography, management studies and the cultural history of business.

        More
      • Trusted Partner
        History through material culture
        Industrial / commercial art & design
        April 2017

        History through material culture

        by Series edited by Simon Trafford, Leonie Hannan, Sarah Longair

        History through material culture is a unique, step-by-step guide for students and researchers who wish to use objects as historical sources. Responding to the significant, scholarly interest in historical material culture studies, this book makes clear how students and researchers ready to use these rich material sources can make important, valuable and original contributions to history. Written by two experienced museum practitioners and historians, the book recognises the theoretical and practical challenges of this approach and offers clear advice on methods to get the best out of material culture research. With a focus on the early modern and modern periods, this volume draws on examples from across the world and demonstrates how to use material culture to answer a range of enquiries, including social, economic, gender, cultural and global history.

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      • Trusted Partner
        History through material culture
        Teaching, Language & Reference
        April 2017

        History through material culture

        by Simon Trafford, Leonie Hannan, Sarah Longair, Sarah Longair

        More
      • Trusted Partner
        Cultivating political and public identity
        Humanities & Social Sciences
        August 2017

        Cultivating political and public identity

        Why plumage matters

        by Rodney Barker

        Public and political life can no longer be seen as simply the pursuit of material gain or even as the struggle for enough food and shelter by which to live. The interests people pursue are shaped by the identities they both inherit and cultivate. In generating identities, everything is important, from clothing to cuisine, from architecture to language; and to understand why and how people associate in groups and communities, and why they compete and conflict with each other, every aspect of identity has to be taken seriously. Whatever secrets may remain in people's minds or souls, who they are socially is what they say, what they eat, and how they live. This book is ideal reading for students, lecturers, and the general reader interested in the importance of identity in public life, and in the inherent political momentum in identity cultivation to both equality and inequality simultaneously. This title is available as an open access ebook under a CC-BY licence at www.oapen.org.

        More
      • Trusted Partner
        Fashionability
        Business, Economics & Law
        October 2017

        Fashionability

        Abraham Moon and the creation of British cloth for the global market

        by Regina Lee Blaszczyk

        Fashion studies is a burgeoning field that often highlights the contributions of genius designers and high-profile brands with little reference to what goes on behind the scenes in the supply chain. This book pulls back the curtain on the global fashion system of the past 200 years to examine the relationship between the textile mills of Yorkshire - the firms that provided the entire Western world with warm wool fabrics - and their customers. It is a microhistory of a single firm, Abraham Moon and Sons Ltd, that sheds light on important macro questions about British industry, government policies on international trade, the role of multi-generational family firms and the place of design and innovation in business strategy. It is the first book to connect Yorkshire tweeds to the fashion system. Written in lively, accessible prose, this book will appeal to anyone who works in fashion or who wears fashion. There is nothing like it - and it will raise the bar for historical studies of global fashion. Here you'll find intriguing stories about a tweed theft from the Leeds Coloured Cloth Hall, debates on tariffs and global trade, the battle against synthetic fibres and the reinvention of British tweeds around heritage marketing. You won't be bored.

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      • Trusted Partner
        History through material culture
        Teaching, Language & Reference
        May 2020

        History through material culture

        by Simon Trafford, Leonie Hannan, Sarah Longair

        History through material culture is a unique, step-by-step guide for students and researchers who wish to use objects as historical sources. Responding to the significant, scholarly interest in historical material culture studies, this book makes clear how students and researchers ready to use these rich material sources can make important, valuable and original contributions to history. Written by two experienced museum practitioners and historians, the book recognises the theoretical and practical challenges of this approach and offers clear advice on methods to get the best out of material culture research. With a focus on the early modern and modern periods, this volume draws on examples from across the world and demonstrates how to use material culture to answer a range of enquiries, including social, economic, gender, cultural and global history.

        More
      • Trusted Partner
        History through material culture
        Teaching, Language & Reference
        May 2020

        History through material culture

        by Simon Trafford, Leonie Hannan, Sarah Longair

        History through material culture is a unique, step-by-step guide for students and researchers who wish to use objects as historical sources. Responding to the significant, scholarly interest in historical material culture studies, this book makes clear how students and researchers ready to use these rich material sources can make important, valuable and original contributions to history. Written by two experienced museum practitioners and historians, the book recognises the theoretical and practical challenges of this approach and offers clear advice on methods to get the best out of material culture research. With a focus on the early modern and modern periods, this volume draws on examples from across the world and demonstrates how to use material culture to answer a range of enquiries, including social, economic, gender, cultural and global history.

        More
      • Trusted Partner
        Deco dandy
        The Arts
        October 2020

        Deco dandy

        Designing masculinity in 1920s Paris

        by John Potvin, Christopher Breward, James Ryan

        Richly illustrated with over 110 colour and black and white images, Deco dandy productively contests the supposedly exclusive feminine aspect of the style moderne (art deco) by exploring how alternative, parallel and overlapping experiences and expressions of decorative modernism, nationalism, gender and sexuality in the heady years surrounding World War I converge in the protean figure of the deco dandy. The book suggests a broader view of art deco by claiming a greater place for the male body, masculinity and the dandy in this history than has been given to date. Important, essential and productive moments in the history of the cultural life of Paris presented in the book are instructive of the changing role performed by consumerism, masculinity, design history and national identity.

        More
      • Trusted Partner
        Deco dandy
        The Arts
        October 2020

        Deco dandy

        Designing masculinity in 1920s Paris

        by John Potvin, Christopher Breward, James Ryan

        Richly illustrated with over 110 colour and black and white images, Deco dandy productively contests the supposedly exclusive feminine aspect of the style moderne (art deco) by exploring how alternative, parallel and overlapping experiences and expressions of decorative modernism, nationalism, gender and sexuality in the heady years surrounding World War I converge in the protean figure of the deco dandy. The book suggests a broader view of art deco by claiming a greater place for the male body, masculinity and the dandy in this history than has been given to date. Important, essential and productive moments in the history of the cultural life of Paris presented in the book are instructive of the changing role performed by consumerism, masculinity, design history and national identity.

        More
      • Trusted Partner
        Deco dandy
        The Arts
        October 2020

        Deco dandy

        Designing masculinity in 1920s Paris

        by John Potvin, Christopher Breward, James Ryan

        Richly illustrated with over 110 colour and black and white images, Deco dandy productively contests the supposedly exclusive feminine aspect of the style moderne (art deco) by exploring how alternative, parallel and overlapping experiences and expressions of decorative modernism, nationalism, gender and sexuality in the heady years surrounding World War I converge in the protean figure of the deco dandy. The book suggests a broader view of art deco by claiming a greater place for the male body, masculinity and the dandy in this history than has been given to date. Important, essential and productive moments in the history of the cultural life of Paris presented in the book are instructive of the changing role performed by consumerism, masculinity, design history and national identity.

        More
      • Trusted Partner
        European fashion
        The Arts
        June 2020

        European fashion

        The creation of a global industry

        by Regina Lee Blaszczyk, Véronique Pouillard, Christopher Breward

        The period since 1945 has been a transformative era for the fashion industry. Over the course of seventy years, the fashion world has moved from celebrating the craftsmanship of haute couture to revelling in ever-changing fast-fashion. This volume examines the transition from the old system to the new in a series of case studies grouped around three major themes. Part I focuses on Paris as a creative hub, aiming to understand how the birthplace of haute couture adapted to late-twentieth-century developments. Part II considers the retailer's role in shaping taste, responding to consumer expectations and disseminating fashion merchandise. Part III looks to alternative visions of the European fashion system that have appeared in unexpected places. The volume is highly interdisciplinary, covering design history, cultural anthropology, ethnography, management studies and the cultural history of business.

        More
      • Trusted Partner
        Marie Duval
        Literature & Literary Studies
        November 2020

        Marie Duval

        Maverick Victorian cartoonist

        by Simon Grennan, Roger Sabin, Julian Waite, Anna Barton, Andrew Smith

        Marie Duval: maverick Victorian cartoonist offers the first critical appraisal of the work of Marie Duval (Isabelle Émilie de Tessier [1847-1890]), one of the most unusual, pioneering and visionary cartoonists of the later nineteenth century. It discusses key themes and practices of Duval's vision and production, relative to the wider historic social, cultural and economic environments in which her work was made, distributed and read, identifing Duval as an exemplary radical practitioner. The book interrogates the relationships between the practices and the forms of print, story-telling, drawing and stage performance. It focuses on the creation of new types of cultural work by women and highlights the style of Duval's drawings relative to both the visual conventions of theatre production and the significance of the visualisation of amateurism and vulgarity. Marie Duval: maverick Victorian cartoonist establishes Duval as a unique but exemplary figure in a transformational period of the nineteenth century.

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