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      • Trusted Partner
        The Arts
        February 2018

        European fashion

        The creation of a global industry

        by Regina Lee Blaszczyk, Véronique Pouillard, Christopher Breward

        The period since 1945 has been a transformative era for the fashion industry. Over the course of seventy years, the fashion world has moved from celebrating the craftsmanship of haute couture to revelling in ever-changing fast-fashion. This volume examines the transition from the old system to the new in a series of case studies grouped around three major themes. Part I focuses on Paris as a creative hub, aiming to understand how the birthplace of haute couture adapted to late-twentieth-century developments. Part II considers the retailer's role in shaping taste, responding to consumer expectations and disseminating fashion merchandise. Part III looks to alternative visions of the European fashion system that have appeared in unexpected places. The volume is highly interdisciplinary, covering design history, cultural anthropology, ethnography, management studies and the cultural history of business.

      • Trusted Partner
        The Arts
        February 2018

        European fashion

        The creation of a global industry

        by Regina Lee Blaszczyk, Véronique Pouillard, Christopher Breward

        The period since 1945 has been a transformative era for the fashion industry. Over the course of seventy years, the fashion world has moved from celebrating the craftsmanship of haute couture to revelling in ever-changing fast-fashion. This volume examines the transition from the old system to the new in a series of case studies grouped around three major themes. Part I focuses on Paris as a creative hub, aiming to understand how the birthplace of haute couture adapted to late-twentieth-century developments. Part II considers the retailer's role in shaping taste, responding to consumer expectations and disseminating fashion merchandise. Part III looks to alternative visions of the European fashion system that have appeared in unexpected places. The volume is highly interdisciplinary, covering design history, cultural anthropology, ethnography, management studies and the cultural history of business.

      • Trusted Partner
        Humanities & Social Sciences
        July 2016

        Exoticisation undressed

        Ethnographic nostalgia and authenticity in Emberá clothes

        by Dimitrios Theodossopoulos, Alexander Smith

        Exoticisation Undressed is an innovative ethnography that makes visible the many layers through which our understandings of indigenous cultures are filtered and their inherent power to distort and refract understanding. The book focuses in detail on the clothing practices of the Emberá in Panama, an Amerindian ethnic group, who have gained national and international visibility through their engagement with indigenous tourism. The very act of gaining visibility while wearing indigenous attire has encouraged among some Emberá communities a closer identification with an indigenous identity and a more confident representational awareness. The clothes that the Emberá wear are not simply used to convey messages, but also become constitutive of their intended messages. By wearing indigenous-and-modern clothes, the Emberá-who are often seen by outsiders as shadows of a vanishing world-reclaim their place as citizens of a contemporary nation. Through reflexive engagement, Exoticisation Undressed exposes the workings of ethnographic nostalgia and the Western quest for a singular, primordial authenticity, unravelling instead new layers of complexity that reverse and subvert exoticisation. ;

      • Trusted Partner
        Humanities & Social Sciences
        July 2016

        Exoticisation undressed

        Ethnographic nostalgia and authenticity in Emberá clothes

        by Dimitrios Theodossopoulos, Alexander Smith

        1 Introduction: Nostalgia, invisible clothes, and hidden motivations 2 Static sketches in transformation 3 A story about Emberá clothes 4 Ghosts of Emberá past 5 Ghosts of Emberá present 6 Representational self-awareness 7 Shifting codes of dress 8 Three authentic Emberá discontinuities 9 Indigenous-and-modern Emberá clothes References

      • Trusted Partner
        Humanities & Social Sciences
        July 2016

        Exoticisation undressed

        Ethnographic nostalgia and authenticity in Emberá clothes

        by Dimitrios Theodossopoulos, Alexander Smith

        1 Introduction: Nostalgia, invisible clothes, and hidden motivations 2 Static sketches in transformation 3 A story about Emberá clothes 4 Ghosts of Emberá past 5 Ghosts of Emberá present 6 Representational self-awareness 7 Shifting codes of dress 8 Three authentic Emberá discontinuities 9 Indigenous-and-modern Emberá clothes References

      • Trusted Partner
        Humanities & Social Sciences
        September 2018

        Exoticisation undressed

        Ethnographic nostalgia and authenticity in Emberá clothes

        by Dimitrios Theodossopoulos, Alexander Smith

        Exoticisation Undressed is an innovative ethnography that makes visible the many layers through which our understandings of indigenous cultures are filtered and their inherent power to distort and refract understanding. The book focuses in detail on the clothing practices of the Emberá in Panama, an Amerindian ethnic group, who have gained national and international visibility through their engagement with indigenous tourism. The very act of gaining visibility while wearing indigenous attire has encouraged among some Emberá communities a closer identification with an indigenous identity and a more confident representational awareness. The clothes that the Emberá wear are not simply used to convey messages, but also become constitutive of their intended messages. By wearing indigenous-and-modern clothes, the Emberá-who are often seen by outsiders as shadows of a vanishing world-reclaim their place as citizens of a contemporary nation.

      • Trusted Partner
        Literature & Literary Studies
        June 2017

        Fashioning Gothic bodies

        by Catherine Spooner

        This innovative book is the first to make an explicit link between constructions of the body in Gothic literature and film and historically specific fashion discourse, from the 1790s to the 1990s.

      • Trusted Partner
        The Arts
        June 2020

        European fashion

        The creation of a global industry

        by Regina Lee Blaszczyk, Véronique Pouillard, Christopher Breward

        The period since 1945 has been a transformative era for the fashion industry. Over the course of seventy years, the fashion world has moved from celebrating the craftsmanship of haute couture to revelling in ever-changing fast-fashion. This volume examines the transition from the old system to the new in a series of case studies grouped around three major themes. Part I focuses on Paris as a creative hub, aiming to understand how the birthplace of haute couture adapted to late-twentieth-century developments. Part II considers the retailer's role in shaping taste, responding to consumer expectations and disseminating fashion merchandise. Part III looks to alternative visions of the European fashion system that have appeared in unexpected places. The volume is highly interdisciplinary, covering design history, cultural anthropology, ethnography, management studies and the cultural history of business.

      • Trusted Partner
        The Arts
        February 2024

        Threads of globalization

        Fashion, textiles, and gender in Asia in the long twentieth century

        by Melia Belli Bose

        Threads of globalization is an interdisciplinary volume that brings fashion-specific garments, motifs, materials, and methods of production into dialogue with gender and identity in various cultures throughout Asia during the long twentieth century. It examines how the shift from artisanal production to 'fast fashion' over the past 150 years has devalued women's textile labour and how skilled textile/ garment makers and the organizations that support them are preserving and reviving heritage traditions. It also offers examples of how socially engaged artists in Asia and the diaspora use their work to criticize labour and environmental abuses in the global fashion industry.

      • Trusted Partner
        The Arts
        February 2024

        Threads of globalization

        Fashion, textiles, and gender in Asia in the long twentieth century

        by Melia Belli Bose

        Threads of globalization is an interdisciplinary volume that brings fashion-specific garments, motifs, materials, and methods of production into dialogue with gender and identity in various cultures throughout Asia during the long twentieth century. It examines how the shift from artisanal production to 'fast fashion' over the past 150 years has devalued women's textile labour and how skilled textile/ garment makers and the organizations that support them are preserving and reviving heritage traditions. It also offers examples of how socially engaged artists in Asia and the diaspora use their work to criticize labour and environmental abuses in the global fashion industry.

      • Trusted Partner
        The Arts
        February 2024

        Threads of globalization

        Fashion, textiles, and gender in Asia in the long twentieth century

        by Melia Belli Bose

        Threads of globalization is an interdisciplinary volume that brings fashion-specific garments, motifs, materials, and methods of production into dialogue with gender and identity in various cultures throughout Asia during the long twentieth century. It examines how the shift from artisanal production to 'fast fashion' over the past 150 years has devalued women's textile labour and how skilled textile/ garment makers and the organizations that support them are preserving and reviving heritage traditions. It also offers examples of how socially engaged artists in Asia and the diaspora use their work to criticize labour and environmental abuses in the global fashion industry.

      • Cosmetics, hair & beauty

        All Women Are Beautiful

        A Guide to Perfect 10 Beauty

        by Diana Polska

        All Women Are Beautiful is the most comprehensive book ever written on how to improve female attractiveness, with over 1,000 scientific studies referenced.

      • Health & Personal Development

        Look 20 When You're 40

        Anti-Aging Skin Care For Wrinkle-Free Flawless

        by Diana Polska

        Look 20 When You're 40 is a highly researched skin care guidebook with over 100 studies referenced. Although there are many many anti-aging products to choose from, there are only a few highly effective, scientifically proven anti-aging skin products that have been shown to stop and reverse aging.

      • Humanities & Social Sciences

        Sawdust Caesar Screenplay

        Feature Film

        by Howard Baker

        SAWDUST CAESAR Stylish young Mod, school-leaver Tommy has to forget his friends and grow up quickly when he gets caught up with the criminal activities of his murdered friend's big brother bent on revenge. The true 'face' of Sixties Mods and Rockers. * Sawdust Caesar depicts the coming-of-age of Tommy who, with his friend Dinger, both fresh out of school, are making a small name for themselves as up-and-coming young criminals. But when Dinger is murdered by Kenser, the leader of a gang of bikers, the mood of the story changes when Dinger's older brother Vince, one of the top men in The Firm, recruits Tommy in place of his little brother. While Tommy's young eyes are being forcibly opened by the more unpleasant aspects of gangland life, Vince continues his search for Dinger's killers, eliminating each of the gang one by one.   To further complicate Tommy's increasingly tenuous relationship with the mob, he is seduced by Beryl, the attractive wife of Ray, the top man. Worse, they are discovered in bed by Vince. But Vince has his own secret, a psychopathic aversion to street girls, and, after berating Tommy for messing around with his best friend's wife, rather than rock the boat he lets the matter drop, preferring instead to use the information as a means of retaining Tommy's diminishing loyalty. Kenser, by now the only survivor of the gang, is caught and achieves unexpected fame as the star of a snuff movie. But Vince's time on Earth also draws to a close when Ray discovers that he is the call-girl killer. Faced with gangland execution, Vince displays an unexpected side to his nature by letting Tommy off the hook - by failing to disclose information which could have led to his own survival.

      • Humanities & Social Sciences

        Brown Trans Figurations

        Rethinking Race, Gender, and Sexuality in Chicanx/Latinx Studies

        by Francisco Galarte

        Within queer, transgender, and Latinx and Chicanx cultural politics, brown transgender narratives are frequently silenced and erased. Brown trans subjects are treated as deceptive, unnatural, nonexistent, or impossible, their bodies, lives, and material circumstances represented through tropes and used as metaphors. Restoring personhood and agency to these subjects, Francisco J. Galarte advances “brown trans figuration” as a theoretical framework to describe how transness and brownness coexist within the larger queer, trans, and Latinx historical experiences. Brown Trans Figurations presents a collection of representations that reveal the repression of brown trans narratives and make that repression visible and palpable. Galarte examines the violent deaths of two transgender Latinas and the corresponding narratives that emerged about their lives, analyzes the invisibility of brown transmasculinity in Chicana feminist works, and explores how issues such as immigration rights activism can be imagined as part of an LGBTQ rights-based political platform. This book considers the contexts in which brown trans narratives appear, how they circulate, and how they are reproduced in politics, sexual cultures, and racialized economies.

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